Tuesday, October 22, 2019

Ciutat Comtal/Ciudad Condal - Great Tapas in Barcelona

The first meal I had in Barcelona was a mouth-watering experience at Ciutat Comtal (its Catalan name) / Ciudad Condal (its Spanish name). Each bite of each dish was really tasty.

It's very popular and doesn't take reservations. I was on a waiting list for 90 minutes before I got a seat at the covered outdoor cafe. It also has indoor dining. The extensive menu is in both Spanish and English.

Part of the Menu

I started out with Bacalao Especial (salt cod) with aioli for €10.95. If you're in Spain, you have to try at least one Bacalao dish because it's a major Spanish (and Portuguese) food. I tried several, and was always pleased.

With the Bacalao and the next tapa, I had a glass of Viña Pomal Crianza Rioja for €3.35. It was very nice.

My second tapa was Mejillones del Norte al Vapor (steamed mussels) for €6.30.

Time for another glass of wine - Raimat Abadia Costers del Segre - Cabernet Sauvignon & Tempranillo for €3.10. Also very nice.

My third tapa was Huevos Estrelladas con Jabugo. Fried eggs with Jabugo ham and potatoes. Jabugo is a terrific ham from the village of Jabugo in southern Spain.

Huevos Estrellados

My total bill came to €42.40.

The restaurant is located on the corner of Rambla de Catalunya and Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes, one block north of Plaza Cataluña.

Monday, October 7, 2019

Poem to Antoni Gaudí

During my visit to Barcelona, I visited four of the great works of the architectural genius, Antoni Gaudí. The first was the Basilica de la Sagrada Familia (the Basilica of the Holy Family), an immense work which has been under construction since 1882. Two of the four were residences - Casa Battló/La Pedrera and Casa Milà. The fourth was Parc Güell, a beautiful park high above the city.


Basilica de la Sagrada Familia


Casa Battló/La Pedrera


In Parc Güell


Looking from Parc Güell over Barcelona to the Mediterranean

Frater Vester Qui Erat in Barcelona[i]

To Antoni Gaudi

October 1, 2019, Barcelona

I. Qui cherche, Trouve[ii]

Gaudi. not gawdy,
Was colorfully plaudible[iii] -
Bounded by nature,
But unbounded within,
His complexity was simple,
His simplicity complex.
He was myopically farsighted
But saw better than all.
His Barcelona creations
Are Gaudacious[iv] innovations
That generate sensations
Of astounding incarnations
Beyond adulation.
Basilica and park
Batlló and Milà -
A wholly-made family[v]
Of complimentary creatures
Featured a new DNA
That none could foresee.
I saw nothing he missed,
But missed much that he saw.

II. Heaven Scent[vi]

Perhaps he'd confess
That his constructs for life
 Built a path to his end:
A. His daily devotion
Led him faster to God.
B. He wouldn't take transport,
But transport took him.
C. His shabbiness without,
Despite elegance within,
Left him sadly bereft
Of emergency care.

[i] The title is a take-off on the name of the prayer - Pater Noster - the Our Father. The title translates to: "Your Brother Who Was in Barcelona." Appropriately, the “cel” in "Barcelona" is the Catalan word for “heaven.”
[ii] The title of this section, "Qui Cherche, Trouve," is my French motto. It means,  "He who searches, finds." Its substantive meaning is that the person who searches for solutions finds them. That was Gaudi.
[iii] "Plaudible" is a word I made up from plaudit.
[iv] "Gaudacious" is a word I made up.
[v] “Wholly made family" is a take-off on "Sagrada Familia" - Holy Family.
[vi] This section is about factors relating to his death.

Barcelona - A Great Place to Visit


Everyone I’ve met who’s been to Barcelona has told me how much they’ve enjoyed it. Now that I’ve had the chance to visit the city, I understand why. The city is interesting, lively, clean, safe, and walk-able. There is a great variety of delicious restaurants and cafes – both indoor and outdoor. There is a lot to see and do. The people are hospitable and English is widely spoken. On one level, it is a bi-cultural city mixing Catalan and Spanish people and their distinct languages. Among the Catalan people there is strong sentiment for independence from Spain. Barcelona is also a multicultural city, with large communities from of many different ethnicities. It has a superb transportation system of interconnected subways, buses, and trains. The weather when I was there in late September was perfect – with highs in the high 70s.

The only downside that I could see was that it was swarming with tourists – like me. Since it is such a terrific destination, it is visited by over 18 million tourists per year. It is the beginning or end point for many Mediterranean cruises. From Montjuic Castle overlooking the city, I could see six huge cruise ships in the port.

I loved the cuisine in Barcelona. There is a great variety of mouth-watering appetizers – Spanish tapas, montaditos (small open-faced, single slice items like crostini, or small baguette sandwiches), and Basque pintxos (also like crostini or canapes, but with a toothpick holding the topping to the bread). In addition to the small dishes, I tried a number of Spanish, Catalan, and Galician dishes. I took a tapas and pintxos walking tour, and a paella cooking class.

Prior to my trip, I did a lot of research on the cuisine and restaurants, and received great advice from friends. So I had a number of specific dishes and restaurants to try. I had reservations at a number of the restaurants.

The Spanish wines were also very enjoyable and reasonably priced. I took a winery tour to the Penedès region about an hour west of Barcelona, and another to the mountaintop Montserrat Benedictine Monsastery and the Ollmer del Mas winery, about an hour northwest of the city.

In the city, I visited four of the architectural wonders of the creative genius Antoni Gaudí – the Sagrada Familia basilica, Park Güell, Casa Milà/La Pedrera, and Casa Battló. I was so impressed, I wrote a poem to him, which I plan to post.

I also visited the incredible La Boqueria food market, the Cathedral of Barcelona, Montjuic Castle, the Gothic Quarter, and the Arc de Triomf.

I was lucky to be there during the annual La Mercè Festival in honor of the patron saint of Barcelona. I saw a fantastic parade, and great outdoor dance performances.

I walked for miles in the city, and never felt uncomfortable.

There were lots of wooden benches where one could sit and relax, or people watch.

Pickpockets are reportedly a problem, so I was very careful to protect my valuables.

As gifts for family and friends, I bought delicious Torrons, traditional Spanish nougats. I purchased them at Vicens Torrons, which has been making them for 300 years.

I also succeeded in my hunt for men’s tie clips to add to my collection. I found them at two places. The best was Militaria Barcelona, a great military antiques store. The other was a booth at the Mercat dels Encants flea market, the largest in Barcelona.